2022 02 26 - Torquay massive
Full adventure with a trip across point danger - which was pretty dangerous with the water just covering the reef and some nasty rocks poking out. Once on the other side - mayhem. Big big waves, I managed to catch one in which was fun - but very difficult to get back out. Hit a reef with my fin, surfers everywhere, swimmers everywhere, and big surf ready to clean you up. And cross chop - you'd get on a wave and crap would be coming at you from every direction. I got it somewhat under control and beckoned to James not to go in any further. Poor Stu didn't get the message and got pushed in to shore - having to walk back along the beach. We'd eventually planned to get down to Bells but after this little adventure that was definitely not on - way too big. Got back across to cozy corner and breathed a sigh of relief to get back to normal swell and repeatable waves.